7.02.2007 Old Town Certaldo and Siena

We took bikes on the scenic route to Old Town Certaldo, which is up on a big hill and kind of looks like a giant castle from afar. It seems like it should be a tourist attraction, but in fact there are businesses and residences. The route there was great, with nice views of vineyards and the Tuscan countryside.

We got lost on our way to the grocery store, but eventually got home and cooked some really good pasta.

We left for Siena in the afternoon with some friends from the hostel, for a semi-annual bareback horserace event. Representatives from each of the 12 regions of Siena compete in a lawless race where almost anything goes. It took them about 20 minutes to even start the race because the competitors kept fighting each other for the inside lane. They false started twice, and had to start over.

Two riders fell off their horses, but apparently the horse can win without the jockey. One guy seemed like he got trampled, but looked okay when he got up. The entire arena was insane. It was completely packed and equally lawless. There was absolutely no organization, no bathrooms, no entrances or exits, just mobs of people in an enclosed area. It took me an hour to go to the bathroom because it was impossible to fight through the crowd, and Kyle peed in a wine bottle in the middle of the crowd. Fortunately, nobody seemed to notice.

When I was trying to get back into the arena from the bathroom, some idiot grabbed my ass. I turned around and glared at the three guys behind me and asked who did it. Of course, none of them answered, so I slapped the guiltiest looking one. It turned out to be the wrong guy, but I yelled at all of them, and then they tried to make peace and offer me a beer. I refused and glared and disappeared into the crowd.

Citizens of the winning township rejoiced and embraced each other in glee when the race was over.

By the time the event was over, the trains had stopped, so we had no choice but to partake in the street festivities. The winning township provided free kegs of wine in the streets and served wine to everyone standing around, including 10-year-old children. The winning township had a little parade of drummers and flag wavers marching through the streets the entire night. We did some bar hopping, and eventually took the 5am train back home in the morning.

7.01.2007 Certaldo (Near Florence)

We arrived in Certaldo around 1:00. We went swimming and laid out in the backyard of the hostel. Our place is really cool. It has a really big backyard with hammocks, benches, roses, and a pool. It used to be a monastery and a vineyard a long time ago.

We rode bikes into town and had dinner at a place called Delfino’s that had amazing pasta.

6.30.2007 Park and Eating

We walked through Milan’s city park which was nice. We had some pistachio gelato. We spent a while in the park, went home, and looked forward to leaving Milan.

6.29.2007 Unfruitful, uneventful, uninteresting

We had more kebabs today, which have become a habit for us. We had great plans to visit a bunch of churches today, including the Cenaolo Vinciani, where Da Vinci’s “Last Supper” painting is located. However, two churches were closed, and the Da Vinci exhibit was sold out for two weeks. Milan is lame.

We went to the Navigli area next, where there is supposed to be a nice river, a beautiful church and bridge. The “river” was more like a dirty stream or flood drain, and it was in a ghetto, dirty area of town. The bridge was 15 feet across and completely average. The church was nothing special and a waste of time.

We walked through a university which was really pretty. We gave up after that and rented some movies.

6.27.2007 Cimitero Monumentale

Today Kyle played poker and I did some shopping. Later we went the the Cimitero Monumentale which is some cemetery where all the tombstones are very extravagant. Apparently there’s a tombstone shaped like the “Last Supper”, but we couldn’t find it. It’s so big we probably only saw ¼ of the whole cemetery. Later we went home, drank some wine, ate some food, and watched a movie.

6.26.2007 First Day in Milan

Today was our first full day in Milan. Yesterday we flew all day, because we had a long layover in Brussels. When we got in we ate Doner Kebabs again, because they are so good. Today we ate at an Italian Pizzeria which was pretty good, but they charge a cover charge, which they also do in Prague, but in Prague you get at least bread and butter with it, and at most it’s $1.50, but usually only 0.50-$1. They charged three dollars a person for nothing. I asked him what the 6 dollars was, he looked at it and said it was the cover charge. Then I looked at the menu, and really small at the bottom it said two dollars. So he tried to screw us, and when I told him, he said, oh the cook must have made a mistake. Yeah right, mistake my ass. Also, our hotel is supposed to have Wi-Fi, oh but it’s broken, the internet café down the street is supposed to have Wi-Fi, oh but it’s broken too. I think everywhere in Europe they just tell you they have Wi-Fi, but when you go to use it, they just say, “it’s broken”.

Then we went and saw various sights of Milan. We saw the Duomo Cathedral which was very large, but of course we couldn’t go in, because we were wearing shorts, even though it’s 90^o outside. Then we walked up same expensive shopping street. It’s interesting in Milan, how you can be walking down the most rundown street where you wouldn’t feel safe walking at night, but then every store is ridiculously expensive shopping for clothes or $5 pieces of chocolate.

Then we saw Pinocoteca, which is some art school with a bunch of old Roman statues. Then we saw the Sforzesco Castle and the park, but we will go back there later, because we didn’t explore the park much, because we were tired and wanted to go home. Then we rented some movies, and ate some food and went home.

6.24.2007 Kutna Hora Bones

Today we went to Kutna Hora to see the Bone Church. It was rather peculiar, because there are the bones of 40,000 people arranged in various décor like a chandelier and a coat of “arms”. Apparently 500 years ago, it used to be a mass grave and they built church there and either to build the church or to bury new people there, or both, they had to dig up the old dead people. Then they had bones lying around for a few hundred years and the family running the church told a wood-worker to “arrange” the bones and he did.

On the way there we saw this guy with two hookers which seemed rather odd. Who takes hookers with him on the train to go sight seeing? From there we toured the town of Kutna Hora and had some great and cheap Gulas and Beer. Two good meals and 3 pints of great bear for $10, which would have cost probably $40 in the US after tax and tip. We saw a few churches and a Cathedral and the rest of the town which was cool to see.